Sunday morning I decided to do something I rarely do: take a walk around Lisbon with no particular destination in mind. Usually, I must admit, I am headed somewhere—the market, the gym, church, the park, etc. That means that half the time I may have my eyes glued to the phone checking for directions or the bus/train schedule. I am not alone in this habit. Sunday morning most of the people on the streets seemed to be more aware of what is going on in the phone screen than they are of their surroundings.
I wandered down the Avenida de Liberdade, Lisbon’s version of NYC’s 5th Avenue, actually looking at the shops, parks and buildings in my path. Lo and behold, I turned my head to look down a street and discovered one of the funiculars for which I have been looking for months. The Lava funicular goes up to a platform adorned with typical Portuguese tiles (azulejos).
After a quick ride up, I saw a building that looks like an palace. That’s because it was once a palace. The Torel Palace Hotel is a spectacular hotel, with a spectacular view and a spectacular price! A standard room goes for about $500 a night. I must admit the property is lovely, but not so sure it’s “lovely” enough for that price!
After a couple of turns down alleys and streets that didn’t particularly call to me, I ended up at a “largo” (the Portuguese word we would translate as “square” or “park”) we’d been past several times in Bolt rides over to friends who live in that area. The largo is divided into three areas: the Jardim Braancamp Freire, Campo dos Martires da Patria, and a children’s play park. At one end of the park is a statue of Jose Tomas de Sousa Martins. Jose, actually Dr. Jose Martins (7 March 1843 – 18 August 1897) was a doctor renowned for his work for the poor in Lisbon. He is most known for his work with victims of tuberculosis and spent a good deal of his practice looking after TB patients. Unfortunately, he contracted TB and eventually died from it. After his death, a secular cult arose around his personality in which he is thanked for "miraculous" cures. The tablets you see at the base of the statue, erected in 1904, were placed in gratitude by patients and their families, as well as those who believe they were cured by his intercession. The Catholic Church, by the way, does not recognize him as a saint. As you can see in the photo, folks still leave pots of fresh flowers and, although you can’t see them in the photo, pictures of what I suppose are family members needing or having received a cure and rosaries are placed at the base of the lower statue. I wonder what the blue cans at the right might be? At first, I thought they were containers used to water the flowers. Then I thought they could contain water that is considered “holy” to be sprinkled on the sick or perhaps folks drink a cup of it for good health. What do you think? I am fascinated by the thought that well over a century after his death he is still venerated as a “secular saint.”
Across the street is quite an impressive building that now houses a medical school. In the foreground of the picture you’ll see some inhabitants of the park. I counted about 20 roosters, and a sprinkling of ducks and swans swimming in pool at the other end.
My wandering eventually led me down toward the Rossio Square, which is in the downtown area of Lisbon. To get there I passed through what is called the “African quarter” or “Little Africa.” There is a large concentration of immigrants from former Portuguese colonies living in this area. Just to the south of this neighborhood live a large number of immigrants from India and several Asian countries. There are great ethnic markets and restaurants in the area that are worth checking out. One of the Indian markets there reminds me of the spice market stalls in Istanbul—literally dozens of spices, most of which I have never seen or used before.
I learned something new this week. A person who strolls aimlessly actually has a fancy name: flâneur. Last year, Stephanie Rosenblum in article published in the New York Times wrote an article entitled “The Art of Being A Flâneur.” She writes:
These days, most flâneurs are not bons vivants in top hats. Gone is the detached observer looking on as Paris transforms before her eyes. We are of our time. All kinds of people today, including those for whom walking isn’t easy or possible, may consider themselves flâneurs and flâneuses. What remains of the original privileged character is a certain romance, an air of freedom and a desire to pursue a slower, looser way of experiencing a city — if only for an afternoon. Eventually, you return to your hotel. You’ve strolled unfamiliar streets and tried new things. If you’re lucky, you’ve seen something beautiful or tasted something superb. Maybe you’re feeling grateful, or you’ve rekindled some joie de vivre. You did not go out with a destination. But perhaps you arrived somewhere after all.
I like those last two sentences especially; not going out with a destination but arriving somewhere after all. Happy “flâneuring!”
Lisbon is a spectacular place to wonder aimlessly. I started a simple morning walking group and we aimlessly wander and wonder through the places many of these familiar places, like chicken park and jardim do torel aka k-pop park. :) Thanks for sharing!
Love this piece! And yes, the last two sentences grabbed me too. This is how I have been thinking about the Camino. Thanks for sharing!! Now, only sorry we will not be spending time in Lisbon. I guess that means another trip!